Lunch of the Day....

A very easy to make dish is the one above: Quesadillia, not just that but it is very economical!

Quote of the Day

“When you have a dream, you don’t know what’s going to happen next. If you wake up, the dream is gone. You can’t see the sequel. But I can do that, because I am a writer.” – Haruki Murakami

Itaewon: A journey from Red Light Area to a Muslim Neighborhood

My relationship with Itaewon is about a decade old – whether I lived near there (in Hannamdong) or moved far away – I had to go there. I don’t remember that in the past 10 years, there was a month when I was not able to visit this neighborhood. 

It was in 2008 that I moved from Yongsan to Bundang and had to think twice to go to Itaewon – but my link with it stayed strong. Itaewon had the mosque, the halal grocery stores, embassies and a diverse mix of restaurants. This place was constantly changing but the changes were too swift for me, maybe I was based there, hence I could NOT see as much activity or government attention that this place actually required. I have to say that Itaewon-ro - a mile long, main street, starting at the tip of Yongsan base and ending at the Hangangjin Station - was overhauled and beautified to what it was…

If we look back, about 10 years ago or even further, at the time of Korea’s liberation from Japan – this place was somehow considered as the traditional center of prostitution. I still remember, my first day in Seoul, I was told NOT TO TAKE the street that has the Bokwang-dong Primary School and goes up towards the mosque - starting from the Itaewon Fire Station. To go to my place I had to take a really long road instead of having have a short-cut - passing through bars, pubs, night clubs, gay bars, and what not which is not confined to the infamous "Hooker Hill" - actually it was a hookers urban ghetto. All one could see was brothels, bars and drunken men and women. It was not until the mid 2000s that the Korean government took stern action against prostitution. Though, the situation and the locale is NOT as ugly as it used to be on ground zero, still today, all sort of strange stuff is going on in the back alleys of Itaewon-ro. For example, in my desperate search for a house a couple of weeks ago - a building located 5 minutes away from the mosque was raided by police - they were looking for some drug dealer - voilà!

During 1970s, when Korea was very active in the construction boom of the Middle East – the governments there demanded General Park’s government to allocate land for a mosque for Muslims living in Seoul. It took a couple of years but finally, General Park, Chung Hee’s government chose this land– right in the center of the Red Light Area of Seoul. In the last decade, the way Itaewon has evolved and has become the center of tourism is hard to believe. There are many factors to it which I will highlight in some other post but one of my most interesting of observation is: nobody wanted to go there but somehow ended up there...reason: well, for being a religious center for some to being a place and space where they were not stared at and where they had a feeling of not being a "waygookin or a foreigner" anymore. For me - Itaewon was like any other neighborhood since I was a foreigner and cared less for how the historical narrative or political and social patterns had shaped it. Once I was with my Korean friends – this was a forbidden place, which they despised and would prefer to go elsewhere. The good news is that now, I can see many Koreans comfortably roaming around, shopping, dinning, enjoying the internalization this place has gone through plus the facelift it has got recently -  which for me is a good vibe but surely is hard to believe, still.

Itaewon of today has much evolved due the Yongsan Base and the migrant workers in the past few decades. UN forces also stationed here and so were the foreign embassies and the diplomats and its staff.

So this was Itaewon’s journey from being a Red Light Area to a Muslim neighborhood.

Personally, I would like to see that our very active mayor of Seoul –  take immediate action with respect to the cleanliness of Itaewon’s dark and narrow streets...the area - which doesn't make Itaewon-ro. The place is filthy and the trash is not collected for days. Though we all know that the foreign population size has swelled there in recent years but it is being completely ignored for God knows why? So what hasn’t changed yet for me in Itaewon is the neighborhood surrounding the mosque - it simply sucks. The narrow alleys and old houses and building are still messed up, trash is all over the place and it smells - it is about time to take immediate action - and that is my appeal.

Again, the good news is: during my absence for about a year,  many new shops and restaurants have opened all around. Particularly, the street on which we have the mosque has improved much – there is a place that is selling abayas and hijabs, another has prayer mats and lotay. A specialized wholesale store for shisha is also very close to the mosque, some really fantastic Travel agencies have opened there. Bakeries with Middle Eastern and Turkish origin are there. Almost all the owners are Muslims. Some of the shops are run by women too. I also noticed 2 Islamic Information Centers on the Mosque Street and then a library cum Islamic Book Store. A second hand store, a few café, a souvenir shop hailing from Turkey and Syria is an interesting addition. I saw two huge stores  specializing in halal stuff and spices called: National Food Stores selling the brand “National"  from Pakistan. I like their masalay – they are tasty. They have a huge supply of everything South Asian. In case you are a vegetarian – stop by, go in and dig in! Several stores/restos have assortments for the vegetarians who are still struggling in Seoul on how to survive. You can have dals, bhujias, rotis and much much more.

I was very happy to see “Siti Sarah” – a restaurant specializing in Malayu food. It is actually Indonesian but they serve some interesting stuff.

My favorite place is a small resto hailing from Lahore with its owner and chef  Mr. Ameer – who was a chef of Mughal Restaurant (behind Hamilton Hotel) for over 20 years. He has just opened up this modest eatry for a little over a year called “Pak - India Restaurant”. He offers the BEST FOOD - Pakistani style – I’ve ever tasted in Korea or outside Pakistan. DO NOT miss him….he is a gifted man when it comes to cooking  – I love everything that he makes – Mashallah!

So, I think that where some nook and corners need attention in Itaewon – a lot has become better on self-help basis by the foreign/business community. It is an interesting place to say the least!

Events in Seoul (October, 2012)

Taekkyeon(택견) Demo.

While staying in Korea, if you have spare time then join this very nice cultural classes at the Seorae Global Village. 

All those who are interested in learning how to do "Maedup" or the Korean knot then Seorae Global Village is holding a class on it. Participation fee is 10,000 won. Class is on October 8th.

Makgeolli Class on: October 16th.

You can also learn how to make a Korean "Hanji Lamp" - participation fee is 25,000 won. Class will be on: October 23rd.

"Taekkyeon(택견)" - traditional martial arts - a demonstration (20 minutes) and practice session will be held on October 26th will be held. It is free of cost.

For more information and registration, the contact address is:
email: seorae@sba.seoul.kr 
Telephone: 02-2155-8916

Thank You Chuseok!

Thanks a lot Chuseok (추석) ... I desperately needed you. Since my return to Korea, I have been running across the peninsula for one thing or the other. The only break I got in-between was "night" and I was thinking what if we had no nights...

Chuseok together with the lunar New Year Day (Seollal/설날) are the most celebrated holidays in Korea and displaces the entire country.  Hangawi (한 가위) or Chuseok falls on the 15th day of the 8th lunar month.

In countries like China, Japan, Vietnam, Singapore and Malaysia etc. this day is celebrate as a Mid-Autumn Festival and you might have noticed a lot of moon cakes being sold at the department stores too.

This year, we had a 5 day holiday on the occasion of Chuseok. In this time and age, somehow we are always wired or connected and what I did for a change was: turned off the cellphone and also the computer...stayed at my Korean grandfather's farm and basked in nature, wild flowers, gorgeous skies, floating clouds, the little stream that passes by, cranes, crispy winds and witnessing autumn swiftly taking over... I loved every second of it!

With autumn, just have to remind you that it is "extremely" windy so don't forget to buy yourself a nice cap that covers your ears and forehead properly. Unlike other countries, another specialty of autumn in Korea is: "단풍" or 丹楓 or fall foliage - in orange, red, yellow, maroon and brown is breathtaking. In case you are around during this time, visit this route or hike a nearby mountain... you'll enjoy it.

I hope that you also had a wonderful Chuseok!

Have a wonderful Chuseok!

Best wishes to you all..have a wonderful Chuseok.

Chuseok Events for Foreigners in Seoul

With Chuseok just around the corner, a lot of events are taking place to engage foreigners in Korea to enjoy the event. One such event is hosted by Seorae Global Village Center at Banpo - it's a contest to make Songpyeon or송편 (moon shaped rice cakes).

A registration is mandatory to take part and seats are limited to 30 people.

Chuseok is the same as Thanksgiving Day.A lot revolves around food, family reunion. The most unique feature of Chuseok is turning of Seoul into almost a ghost town...very few people remain. Anyhow, back to rice cakes dates and place is below.

When and where: 26th September, 2012  from 2:30~5:30 p.m at Seorae Global Village

For more information, call them at:(02) 2155-8915-6 or 2155-8949

Another event is the Korean Speech Contest at Seocho Gu City Office on October 10th.

Where: Seochu gu City office.
When: Oct 10th, 2012
Registration Time is open until Oct.05, 2012.
Email:  ju8112@seocho.go.kr 
Phone: (02) - 2155-6168

TRIP by Korean Railways (Korail) Tourism Organization

If you are free on this coming weekend then you can join this trip sponsored by KORAIL for 2 days and 1 night. 

Participation for this trip is very nominal - 10,000 won. Hotel stay, meals, bus and train fee are all covered. It is first come and first served so hurry up!

1)    Date & time: 2012 Oct 5^th (Friday, first team) or 6^th (Saturday, second team) at 7: 30 am

2)    Departure: Seoul station 

3)    Schedule: 1 night 2 days course. The schedule is changeable due to the weather. (please find attached file)

4)    Participation fee: 10,000 won per person (bus fee, room charge, entrance fee, meals are included)

5)    Pulic: Foreigners only (limited to 80 places, first come first served basis)

6)    Registration: Send email until September 25^th with your full name, cell phone number, foreign registration card number, passport number, sex, age, nationality. After sending email application, please call the responsible to confirm. 

7)    For inquiry contact: 02-2084-5779 / 02-2084-5761 / 02-2084-5762 (available on Tuesday, Thursday, Friday only) 

 or

010-8840-6201(in Chinese)

or

010-6306-0116 (in English) 

Email your personal information at: wish-s281@hanmail.net

Pumpkins in my neighborhood farm in Bundang

My everyday walking track includes some streams, farming communities and lush green rice, phaichu (Korean cabbage), youngpha(spring onion), hobak (pumpkin), peppers or kokuma (sweet potatoes) fields. I thought I should share. After yesterdays typhoon - it is a partly cloudy/sunny day and I'm so happy.

This huge pumpkin is about 7-8 kilos in weight, when it fall off and I tried to pick it up - had problems doing so...

Rice fields near my house...

Dragon flies are in abundance and are quite friendly..

I made tamporas with the pumpkin flowers... a simple and delicious recipe!

Another shape...

Wild flowers - beautiful but thorny..

Spring onion +green chili in a green house...

Small baby pumpkin - they are delicious when baked or even grillled

Cheonggye Mountain is in the background - hikers, trackers and mountain bikers visit it frequently.

More of pumpkins....

..and some more...

a

Typhoon Sanba Hit Korea

...and hence strong winds and crazy rain. On my way to the research center - the umbrella go inside out - inverted due to the heavy winds and rains boots had water and I was all soaked up!

I hope everybody is fine - wherever they are!

Looking forward to a dryer, sunny and warmer day!

Traditional Market: Yeoungdeungpho Shijang (영등포 · 永登浦 - on Line 5)

There are all sorts of markets in the world and some of the most original are the ones located in older part of the cities or are formally designated as the traditional markets. They are the flip side of globalized/modernized world. In South Korea there are about 1500 traditional markets and actually these are the places where you'd see a lot of middle aged people or old age ajusshies and ajjumas.

They sell about everything that you can think of. My first ever traditional market was the biggest and the most famous one - Namdaemun Market - in the heart of Seoul. I also frequented Dongdaemun Market that has transformed so much that it is hard to believe what you'd see. In 2002 -2007....it was a "very typical and traditional" market area, the place had a few malls like DOOTA Tower and across from it was the baseball stadium and underneath it were all sports related stuff being sold. This same area had a very dynamic and active night market that used to start at 8:00p.m and used to finish at 6:a.m. On weekends there was a huge "Weekend Market on the Streets " and one could buy things at a throw away price. I liked it then.

By 2007 with the end of his Mayor term (the current President)Mayor Bak came up with a plan to transform Dongdaemun area. There were fierce battles between the old timer shopkeepers and the police and finally what we see today is the jungle of malls in the area. Baseball stadium was demolished and so was the adjacent huge parking lots. All one can see are the flyovers and sky scrapers of steel and glass. There is still a huge market and sales all the time but it is NOT traditional anymore.

I also discovered Jagidong Traditional Market or  located near Cheongneagni for wholesale vegetables and fruits. They have one of the biggest centers for selling traditional medicines & herbs too. Nearby is Seoul's biggest meat market - highlight of it was dog meat and dogs in freezers. Korea has a long tradition of enjoying dog meat but these days not every place or restaurant sells it. One has to go to the typical markets or places to get the delicacy (yes...I mean, it is a delicacy).

This week, I finally went to Yeoungdeungpo Market / 영등포시장/ 永登浦市場驛 which has a reputation of being a famous flower market hub however, it has other things too. Since I have visited many traditional markets in Seoul, I had high expectations from Yeoungdongpo Shijang but it fall short to my expectations.

Almost everything was either sold for the same rate as any place else or was expensive. This should NOT be so. As soon as I entered the main entrance of Yeoungdongpo, the second stall had dog meat and dogs in the freezers - it is NOT a common sight of course. I mean I do NOT want to debate on eating dog meat or any other meat but I moved from that stall , as fast as I could. As I moved a little more, I found all sorts of grains some among them are used as "dals" or lentils in Indian cuisine - that made me happy. Commonly sold was "hari moong dal" for 5$/kg. ....not bad, I thought.

I loved to see these poped up corns and wheats though - it is a nice snack!

Fruits were sold at slightly low rate  (may be 500 won less or so) , like in the photo above that seeded grapes bucket was sold for 2$.

Painting of all sorts were available from Jesus to Jardin!

 Ajumma fasion was in high demand - colorful shirts and pajamas and traditional boots were plenty. I loved the Phaichu (Cabbage for sale) in the middle of the street for sale. Nobody can miss that out!

Chicken and ducks were a hot commodity especially chicken feet(as above). Entire family was involved in cleaning them and several other organs of chicken such as liver, kidneys skin etc. Chicken feet is a favourite Korean dish in all university neighborhoods. Even feet of pigs and cows are loved here. They simply boil them and eat it with soju+panchan of all sort.

Yeoungdongpo Market has one of the "huge underground markets" so give it a try. This one was filled with yound people.

Vegetables being sold on streets are cheaper than those inside the market

Trousers and trackking suits in all shapes and sizes!

Street Stall at Yeoungdongpo

Traditional Korean Cookingware Shop: if you need dolsut etc. I also found out where all the university eating trays and tableware is coming from...^^

Ajusshi: Dozing off!!!

Namja (men's) Shoes!

Ajumma Shots for summers in pretty colors!

Since Chuseok is around: Jesasang stuff /tableware and tables for sales

Yeoungdongpho Flower Market's : one side of it!

More shoes: Another Ajjoshi dozing off inside the shop where as the wife is selling the shoes, an interesting feature of this market is that some of the shops are linked to the real houses of the these shop owners so that was quite unique.

Korean pears: they are very juicy and huge and the juice is used in bulgogi marination as one of the ingredients!



 Mangoes from the Philippines and Apricots

More fruits!

I bought shrimps - had to throw half of them since I forgot to put them in the freezer ( I really felt bad and the paprika that I bought from there, had to be thrown - almost half - I can NOT use the huge quantities that these traditional markets sell for minimum. Hence, if you are not sharing with someone or are not here with your family: prepare to throw things that you may buy out of excitement of being cheap. It will cost you double the money as well as the effort - carrying all the way from the other end of of the city!!!

I'll recommend to visit these traditional markets that we call bazaars in our part of the world. They are very cool - they will show you how the cities have evolved as well as the real life, people and culture. The trip will be a memorable one!!!