Quran and ...

We are hyper connected in these times and age,  what if one has to access Quran on urgent basis, while online do you have any favorite website? It can be downloaded from several online sources  but which one do you prefer most?

For me, one such website is THIS, which I often refer to when in need.

I wish we could share websites - with other users. If you have any recommendation then share with others..

In the past few weeks, I have met several Korean students majoring in Arabic language  or Islamic history in various Korean universities. Their main concern was: how to improve Arabic and where and how can they find people with whom they can have a language exchange, how to meet real people?? I think that in Korea it is very simple, you can use SNS and create a page for that, you can also leave message on Korea Muslim Federation's website and facebook page and last but not the least, visit the Seoul mosque in Itaewon and that would help.

By the way, at the moment, 6 universities in Korea offer courses in Arabic or Middle Eastern Studies and none of them ranks among the top 8 universities of Korea. Students feel that a lot needs to be improved in these particular courses.

Saudi Arabia is the third biggest trading partner of South Korea after China and USA. Saudi Arabia has signed an MoU with South Korea on educational exchange and every year some 50 students can come on fully supported government scholarships to Korea from Saudi Arabia and vice versa. I think that the Saudi government must invest in educational projects in South Korea with public and private universities and that would be very helpful for both the countries in future as well as for the region and beyond. South Korea is in dire starits to have some really good teachers on Islam, Arabic and the Middle Eastern Studies major.

on Muslims and Islam in Korea -1

Seoul Mosque

A lot has changed in South Korea in the past one decade with respect to Muslims and Islam. On and off, we see articles, columns and essays briefly touching on Muslims in Seoul and its satellite cities or Korea in general.

When we first moved to Seoul, I still remember taking part in anti-war rallies, against the war in Iraq, held in Jongno with YJY, my Korean friend.  We lit candles and threw paper doves in the air. At the time, daily doze of such protests was seen outside the American embassy and the Yongsan base which is sandwiched between Itaewon and Samgakchi. Public was really upset about Korea's involvement in America's war in Iraq.

Then we saw Roh, Moo-hyun, a newly elected president at the time, who came to power solely because of the young voters, committed sending non-combatant forces which later comprised of 50% of the combatant forces to Iraq. Protests that were peaceful in the beginning turned into fierce fighting between the riot police and the protesters. Water canons and road blockades near Insadong, Sejong-ro and  Tapgol 's vicinity in Jongno is what I clearly remember until today. My first Korean vocabulary aside from greetings and daily survival Korean included words such as 전쟁 (war),  반대 (against), 평화 (peace), 지원 (support/aide), 집단 항의 (mass protests).;-) I know it is crazy but that was how things were back then and yes, this was the support of Koreans for Iraq at the time.

Then in 2004, we heard about the kidnapping and then beheading of a Korean, Kim, Sun-il, a young man working as a translator in Fallujah. Kim was fluent in Arabic, holding a graduate degree in Arabic from Hankuk University of Foreign Studies (HUFS/외대). He also had degrees in English and theology and  I still remember how tense that whole month was - before and after this horrible incident. Every day, at the university entrances and at various places all over the city I saw the banners and Kim's photographs, candle light vigils and Citizen's Groups visiting the embassies of Muslim countries in and around Itaewon. Extra police force was deployed at the diplomatic missions from Muslim countries and also their residential areas alongside Seoul mosque to counter any attack by locals but nothing of sort happened to the Muslims living in Seoul.

Among other significant events was the kidnapping of Korean missionaries in Kandahar, Afghanistan in July 2007. Pakistan was one of the central countries at the time helping in negotiations etc. and every day people used to gather in front of Pakistan embassy demanding the release of those missionaries held by Taliban because they thought (and rightly so), that some groups in Pakistan have had strong ties. Unfortunately, two men among the 23 hostages were beheaded by Taliban however, the rest of them were released. Not just that Korea called its military personnel back but it is said that they paid about 20 million dollars as ransom.  Huge rallies were held all over Korea to call troops back but Muslim community was not attacked per se.

Actually, 2 years ago, I met a lady from this same church, Saemmul Presbyterian Church, in Bundang and she told me that she often goes to Afghanistan and honestly, at that moment I was thinking that isn't  it still a very dangerous place for anyone irrespective of their religion or country.

So, what has actually changed over the years with respect to the perception of Koreans towards the Muslims? I think that Koreans had a very positive image of Muslim countries and Muslims in general. Historically, it's said that interaction between Koreans and Muslims can be traced back to the 7 Century A.D during Shilla Kingdom, however others claim that Muslim merchants came for the first time in the 9th Century A.D. and overall, there is nothing negative on that but then the history of Muslims or of Islam in Korea is not a well researched area. It never could garner enough interest of the locals to dig deeper and there are very few people and universities that offer studies and courses on Islam. Nevertheless, in recent years, for several reasons, young Koreans are quite interested in the Middle Eastern Studies, Arabic language, Islamic studies and Islamic law. I hope that things will change fast. Recently, one of my friends asked me if I could help her getting a loan from some Islamic bank for the mere fact that there is 'No Interest' on the loan.See. How things work these days and how certain ideas and ways of doing business create interest.

Last but not the least, if we look at the contemporary history of Korea, then the participation of Turkish forces during the Korea War (1950-1953) has a great impact on Koreans. It earned a lot of respect for Turks in particular and Muslims in general. Turkish soldiers fought side by side with South Koreans under the UN with the second largest contingent after the Americans.

Turk soldiers on front-line during the Korean War

 “The Turkish Brigade” also known as the Anatolian Lions entered the war in late Nov 1950, at almost the same time as Communist Chinese Forces started fighting on the side of North Korea. They lost 741 men and 2, 246 men got wounded, 237 were made POWs  and 175 missing in action - it is the highest combat casualty rate of any UN unit involved in the Korean War. Some of the accounts can be read here.

Another reason for Koreans to have interest in the Muslim world and having have a positive image is via  a large number of Korean construction workers who have lived and worked in the Middle East in 1960s and 1970s during the oil boom that the region saw. Middle East's oil booms was Korean  construction companies boom too and that is how these workers ended up there. I have met a couple of taxi drivers who told me that they have worked in Saudi Arabia and UAE and also shared their experience of living in those countries and they only had positive things to say.

10 years ago, people in Korea upon hearing that I'm from Pakistan used to talk of Field Hockey or of mountaineering in Pakistan but now, the first thing I hear are the words such as:Taliban, jihad, Osama bin Ladin or terrorism. That is indeed sad. I think that the main reason is that the images they see in today's world of media either electronic or print - what they hear with respect to the Muslims or Muslim countries or Islam is strongly overshadowed by the American influence on Korean media. Korean media never made any effort to liberate itself from the shadow of the mainstream American narrative. America is at odds with the Muslim world hence, what can one expect.

Moreover, in recent years some very unfortunate events have also happened and I've already highlighted a few of them. With all these ups and downs, a couple of my Korean friends from Yonsei are now happily working in Dubai for joint venture companies and believe me that they have no plans to return to Korea. Many of them have memorable trips to North African and other iddle Eastern countries and they loved it. I'm not saying that the Muslim world doesn't have problems but what I mean to say is that generalizations and stereotyping is not a good idea.

 I'd suggest visiting Itaewon - a Muslim neighborhood of Seoul, it has a lot to offer - a cocktail of diverse but rich Muslim culture right in the heart of Seoul. How about taking a trip down there and witness it yourself?

Anyways, all we need is a platform where we can exchange views, share our thoughts and  try to understand each-others point of view. That can make a hell of a difference.

Itaewon: A journey from Red Light Area to a Muslim Neighborhood

My relationship with Itaewon is about a decade old – whether I lived near there (in Hannamdong) or moved far away – I had to go there. I don’t remember that in the past 10 years, there was a month when I was not able to visit this neighborhood. 

It was in 2008 that I moved from Yongsan to Bundang and had to think twice to go to Itaewon – but my link with it stayed strong. Itaewon had the mosque, the halal grocery stores, embassies and a diverse mix of restaurants. This place was constantly changing but the changes were too swift for me, maybe I was based there, hence I could NOT see as much activity or government attention that this place actually required. I have to say that Itaewon-ro - a mile long, main street, starting at the tip of Yongsan base and ending at the Hangangjin Station - was overhauled and beautified to what it was…

If we look back, about 10 years ago or even further, at the time of Korea’s liberation from Japan – this place was somehow considered as the traditional center of prostitution. I still remember, my first day in Seoul, I was told NOT TO TAKE the street that has the Bokwang-dong Primary School and goes up towards the mosque - starting from the Itaewon Fire Station. To go to my place I had to take a really long road instead of having have a short-cut - passing through bars, pubs, night clubs, gay bars, and what not which is not confined to the infamous "Hooker Hill" - actually it was a hookers urban ghetto. All one could see was brothels, bars and drunken men and women. It was not until the mid 2000s that the Korean government took stern action against prostitution. Though, the situation and the locale is NOT as ugly as it used to be on ground zero, still today, all sort of strange stuff is going on in the back alleys of Itaewon-ro. For example, in my desperate search for a house a couple of weeks ago - a building located 5 minutes away from the mosque was raided by police - they were looking for some drug dealer - voilà!

During 1970s, when Korea was very active in the construction boom of the Middle East – the governments there demanded General Park’s government to allocate land for a mosque for Muslims living in Seoul. It took a couple of years but finally, General Park, Chung Hee’s government chose this land– right in the center of the Red Light Area of Seoul. In the last decade, the way Itaewon has evolved and has become the center of tourism is hard to believe. There are many factors to it which I will highlight in some other post but one of my most interesting of observation is: nobody wanted to go there but somehow ended up there...reason: well, for being a religious center for some to being a place and space where they were not stared at and where they had a feeling of not being a "waygookin or a foreigner" anymore. For me - Itaewon was like any other neighborhood since I was a foreigner and cared less for how the historical narrative or political and social patterns had shaped it. Once I was with my Korean friends – this was a forbidden place, which they despised and would prefer to go elsewhere. The good news is that now, I can see many Koreans comfortably roaming around, shopping, dinning, enjoying the internalization this place has gone through plus the facelift it has got recently -  which for me is a good vibe but surely is hard to believe, still.

Itaewon of today has much evolved due the Yongsan Base and the migrant workers in the past few decades. UN forces also stationed here and so were the foreign embassies and the diplomats and its staff.

So this was Itaewon’s journey from being a Red Light Area to a Muslim neighborhood.

Personally, I would like to see that our very active mayor of Seoul –  take immediate action with respect to the cleanliness of Itaewon’s dark and narrow streets...the area - which doesn't make Itaewon-ro. The place is filthy and the trash is not collected for days. Though we all know that the foreign population size has swelled there in recent years but it is being completely ignored for God knows why? So what hasn’t changed yet for me in Itaewon is the neighborhood surrounding the mosque - it simply sucks. The narrow alleys and old houses and building are still messed up, trash is all over the place and it smells - it is about time to take immediate action - and that is my appeal.

Again, the good news is: during my absence for about a year,  many new shops and restaurants have opened all around. Particularly, the street on which we have the mosque has improved much – there is a place that is selling abayas and hijabs, another has prayer mats and lotay. A specialized wholesale store for shisha is also very close to the mosque, some really fantastic Travel agencies have opened there. Bakeries with Middle Eastern and Turkish origin are there. Almost all the owners are Muslims. Some of the shops are run by women too. I also noticed 2 Islamic Information Centers on the Mosque Street and then a library cum Islamic Book Store. A second hand store, a few café, a souvenir shop hailing from Turkey and Syria is an interesting addition. I saw two huge stores  specializing in halal stuff and spices called: National Food Stores selling the brand “National"  from Pakistan. I like their masalay – they are tasty. They have a huge supply of everything South Asian. In case you are a vegetarian – stop by, go in and dig in! Several stores/restos have assortments for the vegetarians who are still struggling in Seoul on how to survive. You can have dals, bhujias, rotis and much much more.

I was very happy to see “Siti Sarah” – a restaurant specializing in Malayu food. It is actually Indonesian but they serve some interesting stuff.

My favorite place is a small resto hailing from Lahore with its owner and chef  Mr. Ameer – who was a chef of Mughal Restaurant (behind Hamilton Hotel) for over 20 years. He has just opened up this modest eatry for a little over a year called “Pak - India Restaurant”. He offers the BEST FOOD - Pakistani style – I’ve ever tasted in Korea or outside Pakistan. DO NOT miss him….he is a gifted man when it comes to cooking  – I love everything that he makes – Mashallah!

So, I think that where some nook and corners need attention in Itaewon – a lot has become better on self-help basis by the foreign/business community. It is an interesting place to say the least!

Ramadan Mubarak!

Ramadan Preparations at the Badshahi Mosque Lahore, Pakistan

It's first of Ramadan in Korea, Japan (Northeast Asia), Kazakhstan (Central Asia), Europe and  North America, probably in many other regions across the world too.

I wish everyone a very gracious, wonderful and a memorable Ramadan!

HAPPY RAMADAN MUBARAK TO ALL.

Ramadan ( Month of Fasting) in Korea

Iftar at a Mosque

Ramadan is just around the corner and hence, a post.

Principles of Ramadan across the countries, cultures and families are the same: time for inner reflection, devotion to God, self-control and cleansing of body and mind however, the celebrations varies from place to place and people to people.

Muslims fast (do NOT eat from dawn to dusk) during Ramadan. Young and old, men and women everybody wants to fast but then there are exceptions to the rule for those who shouldn't be fasting. It is observed at a national level in Pakistan and culturally, there is a prohibition of eating in public, even if one doesn't fast for whatever reasons. Rules are NOT as strict as is the Middle East: nobody's sent to jail or heads are shaved, though.

In Islam, religion is not limited to the private life but instead, it is often exhibited publicly through social obligations and rights. Over the years, we have really twisted a few things while practicing this idea but I don't want to rant about it now.

I think my best Ramadan was when I was a kid while living in Pakistan. A Ramadan day used to start with sirens for Sheri ( also called Suhoor) and the fast used to start with the Fajar Azzan  (also called Adhan) at dawn and ends with Magrib Azzan at dusk. There was always a lot of excitement in just waking up at Suhoor (also called Sehri) and I guess waiting was the essence of it all.

A lot of different varieties of mouth watering food was prepared that we only used to get in Ramadan and the taste always seemed enhanced, magically. It was a full blown family reunion thing, first ever fast was celebrated as a party for anyone turning 12 years old or sometimes even  much younger, reciting of Quran every morning and afternoon, Tarveeh (Tarawhee), and  of course, endless shopping to celebrate Eid (Eidul Fitr or Idul Fitri) - which follows Ramadan were some of the initials. On the last day of Ramadan, we, the girls,  used to have Mehndi/ Henna. I still remember, we all used to go out in the lawns and used to try our luck to track the new moon for Shawwal to celebrate Eid and to say adios to Ramadan but then with time, TV took over the tradition of moon sighting and people started to wait in  front of TVs to hear if the moon is sighted or not.  Dang :-(

Anyhow, new clothes, shoes, sweets, gifts, money given to kids by the elders in the family, sharing life with the less fortunate and making sure to give Fitra (charity) was very important for ever household irrespective of their economic standings. Over all, we as Muslims are obliged to give charity, repent sins, make an effort to do good deeds, read Quran and act on it as well, pray, and offer iftar (breaking of the fast) to those who fast are some of the basics of Ramadan.

I still remember that neighbors used to share their Iftari (special  food prepared to break fast) with others living in the same street or invite guests on Thursdays and  Fridays. Extra food was also prepared to share with those who fasted and those who could not afford it. Special Iftari was prepared to send to mosques where a lot of people used to gather to break fast. Markets and bazaars used to bustle with people. It was beautiful times and Pakistan was also a wonderful place to live unlike now.

Then what happened? Actually,  Globalization hit us as an epidemic and people started moving to other countries more often than not. Families broke down and dispersed. We also moved out and then experienced an entirely different Ramadan from country to country where we got to live. I will specifically talk of my Ramadan experience in Seoul, South Korea since I've spent 10 Ramadans here, seriously!

One thing is that Ramadan is NOT a public affair anymore. It is an individual/private affair. I still remember that I was taking an exam on Eid day (Eid has the same importance as Chuseok or Christmas for some). It was  a strange feeling. Unlike Pakistan, no short working hours, no Azzans (Adhan) to be heard, not much celebration to see at a mass scale but the good news is: if you want to feel/experience Ramadan then stop by Seoul Central Mosque in Itaewon. The Itaewon's mosque neighborhood has an air  of festivity and of the holy month. Fridays are very special there but almost every day of Ramadan is good. Seoul Central Mosque offers Sahoor, Iftar and Taraveeh. Many embassies as well as Muslim businessmen and others contribute to keep the traditions going. Seoul Mosque offers separate services for women and men . Itaewon's Muslim restaurants from Pakistan, Turkey, Bangladesh and the Middle East also offer free Iftar. Sometimes, Embassies also offer Iftar for it's nationals. Uzbek, Malaysian and Indonesian embassies are amongst them.

At a personal level, local people are quite curious about Ramadan and wants to know more. For many, it is their first time to actually meet somebody fasting and they are quite concerned about it in a good way. Many of your friends or colleagues would ask you all sort of questions so be prepared. I was surprised when friends prepared special food for me despite the fact that they were NOT Muslims and they told me that Eid is a national holiday in the Philippines. Philippines: you rock! A few Koreans wondered why we do NOT fast the year round? 

 I know that Ramadan at home and homeland is an entirely different story however, there are many ways in which you can enjoy it while still away from home. Invite friends from other Muslim countries to join you. You can offer a place to invite others fasting in your neighborhood to gather together for Salat (Namaz), preparing food together for Iftar and organize your Taraveeh in case you live far away from Itaewon. Even if you are living closeby it is NOT necessary that you'd be able to make it to Itaewon. Try to be innovative and use your skills and follow the old school of celebrating Ramadan, meaning spirit of sharing and giving!

Wish you a happy and gracious Ramadan.


To dig further:

Namaz or Salat Times (also:Ramadan/Ramazan Schedule) for the month of Ramadan, 2012 in Seoul, Korea: click HERE

How to get to Itaewon Central Mosque: click HERE

List of Mosques in South Korea: click HERE

How to get to Daegu Mosque/Islamic Center: click HERE and scroll down to comments.

How to get to Daejeon Mosque and Islamic Center: click HERE

Blog posts on Ramadan in Korea by an Indonesian is here and a Malaysian is here. Very interesting writeups.

MosqueKBS documentary on "Muslims in Korea" : HERE and Arirang's Islam in Korea HERE (Interview with the Imam of Jeonju Mosque).

A YOU TUBER has uploaded a very nice video  HERE on Seoul Central Mosque, its governing body and the neighborhood per se.

Bikini to Burquini

Burqini n. [Blend of burqa and bikini.] is a swimsuit that conforms to Islamic dress code, particularly one that covers the entire body, except the face, hands, and feet.

Burqini has made quite a stir when Nicole Kidman and a famous British chef Nigella Lawson were spotted wearing the full-body suit for nonreligious reasons. Inspired by these trendsetting celebs, here are five reasons to don a burqini (and don't fret French women, since it doesn't cover the face I doubt it's included in the French burqa ban).

• It protects your entire body from the sun, which is why Lawson and Nicole Kidman wear the suit.
• Feeling bloated? Not ready for bikini season? The burqini covers any and all unsightly bumps and bulges.
• If you're trying not to be recognized by the paparazzi or an ex-boyfriend, pair the burqini with sunglasses and a hat for an incognito beach or pool outing.
• You can be a modest role model for skimpy-bikini-wearing tweens.
• It's timeless — you can wear it for years to come.

Source: Read here.

Meet Saudi Arabia's Culture and Life Style at Korea Foundation Seoul

South Korea and Saudi Arabia have a relationship that spans over 50 years. Saudi Arabia is the third largest trading partner of South Korea after China and USA. In commemoration of that Korea Foundation Cultural Center is holding an exhibit that will display Saudi traditional lifestyle or let us say Bedouin life style and how Korea is complementing in it through its technology and innovation.

Get a taste of Saudi Arabia without leaving Korea at the Korea Foundation Cultural Center (2F).

Display: 20th. - 26th. June 2012.
How to get there:click the picture above.
For more info. call:(02)2151-6520 or email:kfcenter@kf.or.kr

10 Years in Seoul: Looking Forward, Looking Back…

10 years ago, in May of 2002, I was super busy in packing my suitcases - nervously looking at heaps of stuff and puzzled what things to take along and what to leave on my move from Islamabad to Seoul. I had no idea what to expect and what awaits us as a family in Korea. Near end of a decade is almost here in a few days for me and yes, Korea has changed me forever that I could never have imagined.

The fact is that Korea was never on my radar of ‘to-visit-x-countries’ list but once I got here – Seoul has never ceased to amaze me. I had no idea, a decade ago, I would be witnessing the historic FIFA World Cup (of 2002) – Live or I would be celebrating Korea’s advance into the semi finals and the celebrations afterwards on the streets of Seoul or I would be doing my graduate and post graduate studies here or I would be changing my major to Korean Studies, or would be desperate to learn Korean language to at least survive Korea armed with the simple vocab such as: hello (Annyong Haseyo), how much? (Ul-ma-aeiyo?), how are you? (Chal jinay-say-yo), yes (Nay) , no (Anniyo), why (way), quickly/ hurry-up (Palli-pulli) etcetra. I didn't know any of the many people I now know in Seoul more than I have known in my hometown. My gut feeling on reaching Seoul was sort of “I’m lovin it”.

I really had no idea that the transformations will be so swift and will lead to the reverse cultural shock in my own country. Nobody can  prepare us to deal with this shock – to integrate back into the culture of your home country after living abroad. At times, this process seems much harder than assimilating into Korean culture or any foreign culture. That’s it.

Over the years, some of the Korean customs that have become my second nature include the extensive use of chopsticks for both eating and cooking. I think that they are better than forks/spoons and are quite handy.

To this I will add the ‘no-shoes-indoors’ policy which I endorse strongly. The norm in Korea is that you should take off your shoes and put on one of the many pairs of slippers stored by the door in the shoe cabinet available in every single house. There is an additional set of slippers for bathroom too. Now when I see somebody roaming around the house in their shoes that they wear outside – it’s quite disgusting.

Apart from shoe policy, one thing that I do extensively is bowing even while saying hello or Salam to people.

Living in Seoul was not just a physical journey for me – it is a cultural, spiritual, emotional and also an academic journey. Just have to say that no two people will ever have the same experiences or the exact same conclusions. It is something up close and personal but nevertheless, it gives all of us an opportunity to grow.

Jhumpa Lahiri said it so wisely that: "...Still, there are times I am bewildered by each mile I have traveled, each meal I have eaten, each person I have known, each room in which I have slept. As ordinary as it all appears, there are times when it is beyond my imagination."

Foreign Communities of Seoul (서울의 외국인 마을)

Seoul has changed incredibly in the last 10 years. Seoul has the highest concentration of foreigners in Korea. There are several areas within Seoul that have become the foreign enclaves such as the Japanese enclave can be found in Inchon dong, French enclave is in Seorae, Banpo-dong, Muslim enclave is in Itaewon, English teachers enclave (there is no such thing as English teachers enclave)  is in Haebangchon or HBC, Mongolian and Russian enclave is in Dongdaemun, the Nepalese have their enclave Yeongdong-pho, Filipinos have their enclave in Hyewha and so on...

I saw this interesting article in Chosun Ilbo and thought that posting it here would help many foreigners in Korea or Koreans as well to discover some not so famous foreign enclaves of Seoul.

The best part about these enclaves is that you can find just about anything from your country or region there and thus it is very convenient. They also have some wonderful restaurants and it is always a welcoming change that we all need from time to time while living as an expat.

Chosun Ilbo's article is  here (in Korean). However, I have also tried to insert meanings for the difficult Korean words and will probably translate it at some point when I'll have time. Enjoy the read, it is very simple.

일요일 오전의 한남동 갈보리(Calvary)교회. 아프리카 가나에서 온 흑인(black people) 30여명이 미용실 건물 지하의 좁은 (cramped/small/narrow) 방에 모여 예배(service/worship)를 보고 있었다. 가나인 폴 멘세(55) 목사가 "가나의 안녕과 두고 온 (misplaced) 가족들의 안녕을 빈다(wish/pray)"는 기도와 설교(sermon)를 끝내자 예배를 드리던 흑인들이 6~7명씩 돌아가면서 찬송가(hym)에 맞춰 (adjust/tune to)온몸을 흔들 (shake)며 격렬한 (violently, intensely, severely) 춤을 추기 시작했다. 한국 교회에선 찾아보기 힘든 이 '춤추는 예배'는 2시간 넘게 (pass/go beyond) 이어졌다(continued).

이태원동•한남동•보광동 경계가(borderline) 만나는 곳에 총(gross) 600여명의 아프리카계(가나•나이지리아•수단 등) 흑인들이 모여 사는 마을이 있다. 다세대주택(multiplex housing units)이 모여 있는 마을의 좁은 (narrow) 골목(alley, backstreet). 벽면엔 (on wall surface)흑인들이 그려놓은 총천연색(decorate sth in full colors) '그라피티'(벽에 낙서(doodle)처럼 긁(scratch)거나 페인트를 분무기로 뿜어(via spray paints) 그린 그림)가 요란하다(loud/gaudy). 그래서 '흑인마을'로 불린다. 골목에 들어서자 키 180㎝가 훌쩍 넘는 큰 체구(frame)의 흑인들이 휴대용 카세트를 손에 들고 힙합에 맞춰 어깨를 들썩이며(excitedly) 악수(handshake)를 청해왔다(requested/asked for).

서울 속엔 이미 '세계'가 들어서 있다. 가나, 네팔, 일본, 프랑스, 몽골, 러시아와 이슬람 국가들까지…. 지난해 서울에 살고 있는 것으로 집계된 외국인은 28만여명. 이들은 나라별로 자신의 '마을'을 서울 속에 만들어가고 있는 중이다.

'흑인마을' 골목을 따라 3분쯤 걸어 내려오면 다른 풍경이 펼쳐진다(stretch out). 무슬림(이슬람 신자believer/devotees))들이 예배를 드리는 '이슬람 서울중앙성원'으로 이어지는 것이다. 성원을 중심으로 이란, 터키 등에서 온 무슬림 2000여명이 이 일대에 산다.

'금요 합동예배'가 있었던 21일 성원으로 줄지어 들어가는 수백 명(several hundred )의 무슬림들 사이사이로 근처 수퍼마켓에서 생수를 구입해 얼굴과 귀, 발을 부랴부랴 (to rush)씻는 사람들이 보였다. 무슬림들은 예배 전에 반드시(certainly) 몸을 씻는데, 미처 씻지 못하고 성원에 도착한 이들이다.

30년간 이곳에서 고깃집을 운영해온 김영숙(여•55)씨는 "특히 매주 금요일이면 정말 여기가 한국인지 중동인지 헷갈린다(confusing)"고 했다.

오후가 되자 터번을 쓴 (turban wearing) 구릿빛 피부( brown skinned males)의 남성들과 검은 차도르(black chadors)를 두른 (wrapped in)채 눈만 내놓 (put out, bring forward)은 여성들 1000여명이 예배를 마치고 거리로 쏟아져 나왔다(o spill all over/outburst). 이들은 성원에서 이태원소방서로 이어지는 200m 남짓한 거리에 늘어선 무슬림 정육점(meat shop)과 식당, 식료품점에 들어가 장을 봤다. 이곳에서 무슬림 식품점을 운영하는 (manage/run/operate) 시라지(44)씨는 "이슬람 신자들은 신에게 기도를 올린 뒤 단칼에(in one stroke of knife) 도살한 '할랄 고기'만 먹기 때문에 한국의 다른 지역에선 구하기 힘든 할랄 고기를 사러 하루 100명 넘는 손님이 찾아온다"고 했다.

이태원에서 버스로 20여분 떨어진 동대문시장 일대. 여기는 '제2의 이태원'이라 불릴 만큼 다양한 외국인들이 무리지어 (flocked together) 살고 있다. 특히 지하철 6호선 동묘앞역 부근(vicinity/neighborhood) (창신동)은 네팔인들이 운영하는 레스토랑과 무역 점포들(stores)이 밀집(concentrated) 해 '네팔 거리'로 불린다.

이곳에서 마주치(to face eachother)는 네팔인들은 처음 보는 사람에게도 두 손을 모은 채 "나마스테(안녕하세요)"라고 인사를 건넸다. 무역상점엔 '쿠그리'라는 네팔 술과 '짐부'라는 네팔 카레 원료가 진열돼 있고, 네팔 음식을 파는 식당에선 그들이 즐겨 먹는 빵인 '난'을 굽는 냄새가 고소하게 풍겼다.

여기서 700m쯤 떨어진 곳엔 아예 몽골인들만의 '건물'이 있다. 이 10층짜리 건물의 원래 이름은 '뉴 금호타워'이지만 주민들은 모두 '몽골타운'이라고 부른다. 지하 1층을 포함해 모든 점포의 이름이 키릴문자(몽골•러시아 등에서 통용)로 표시돼 있다. 주말마다 몽골인 200여명이 몰려들(swarm/gather)어 몽골 신문이나 몽골어 자막의 영화 DVD를 사간다.

서울의 외국인 마을도 본국과 (one’s native country) 한국의 경제 교류 (exchange/interchange) 상황(state of affairs/situation)에 따라 부침(浮沈)(twists and turns)이 뚜렷하다(distinct/clear). 1997년 말 한국이 외환(foreign exchange)위기(crisis)를 겪으면(experience, suffer, meet)서 원화 (Korean won) 가치(value)가 급락(plunge, fall) 하자 네팔•몽골•러시아 등에서 '보따리 (whole sale/bundle/package)상인'들(merchants/dealers)이 이전보다 값이 싸진 의류(clothing/garments)와 이불, 전기장판 (electric heating mats) 등을 떼어다 본국에 팔기 위해 동대문시장으로 몰려들었다(swarmed). 이 과정에서 시장 인근에 외국 상인들의 주거지가(dwelling, residence) 만들어졌다. 이들을 위한(to care for) 식당, 환전소exchange booth 등이 들어서면서 상권(trading area)도 함께 형성됐다(developed).


몽골타운은 원래 러시아•중앙아시아인 타운이었다. 1980년대 후반 공산권 (communist bloc) 국가들의 붕괴로(collapse) 한국에 들어왔던 러시아•중앙아시아 보따리상들이 광희동 부근에 먼저 '마을'을 조성했다. 몽골인들은 1990년대 후반부터 많이 입국했는데, 같은 공산권 국가 경험을 가졌기 때문인지 이 일대에 자연스럽게 (naturally)자리잡았다.

이곳에서 10년 가까이 원단 무역을 해온 김모(48)씨는 "조용한 성격의 러시아인들과 거친 기질의 몽골인들이 서로 문화가 달라 잘 융합되지 않았는데, 결국 터줏대감 (for the longest time) 이었던 러시아인들이 많이 떠났다"고 말했다.

프랑스인들이 모여 사는 서래마을(반포4동) 역시 국내에 진출했던 프랑스 기업들의 철수로 마을에 사는 프랑스인 수가 크게 줄었다. 5~6년 전까지만 해도 프랑스 고속철도 테제베, 대형 마트 까르푸 등이 국내에 들어오면서 프랑스인 유입도 최고조에 달했다. 빌라 월세는 최고 1100만원까지 달했다.

그러나 고속철 사업이 끝나고 까르푸가 한국에서 철수하면서 서래마을도 예전만 못하다. 지금은 월세가 평균 250만원대로 크게 떨어졌다.

외국인 마을 형성 (develop)은 지역 재개발 (redevelop) 과도 연관(relation) 이 깊다. '흑인마을'의 경우 3~4년 전쯤 한남동•보광동 지역의 재개발 예정 소식이 알려지면서 토박이들이 비싼 값에 집을 팔고 떠났다. 그 뒤 집을 사들인 사람들이 싼값에 방을 내놓으면서 원래 이태원 일대에 거주하던 흑인들이 몰려들었다. 구로동의 '조선족 마을' 역시 이들이 원래 모여 살던 가리봉동 지역이 재개발되자 집값이 싸고 전철역이 가까운 구로동으로 옮겨와 최근 3년 사이 '마을'이 형성됐다.

외국인 마을의 외국인들은 대부분 사업, 유학 등으로 3~4년 정도 단기 체류하는 사람들이 많다. 이 때문에 한국인과 어울리면서 한국에 적응하기보다는 같은 나라 출신들끼리만 뭉쳐 지내다 본국으로 떠나려는 경향이 강하다. 주민들과 외국인들 사이에 문화 차이로 인한 갈등도 자주 빚어지고 있다.

아프리카계 외국인이 많이 사는 이태원동에선 "흑인들이 쓰레기를 아무 데나 버린다" "한밤중에 거리에서 시끄럽게 떠든다"는 민원이 동사무소로 자주 들어온다. 경찰도 야간 순찰을 강화했다. 그러나 이 마을에서 실제 아프리카계 외국인 범죄가 발생했거나 한국인들과의 갈등이 표출된 적은 없다.

가나에서 온 마카시 콰슬(44)씨는 "낯설고 말이 통하지 않아 친해지기 어려운 것뿐이지 흑인이라고 해서 무조건 피하거나 고함을 질러대면 기분이 많이 상한다"고 했다.

Ramadan Mubarak from Seoul!

Ramadan (the month of fasting for muslims) has just begun today. Fasting as one of the important pillars of Islam, consists of abstaining from food and drink from dawn (day break) to dusk (sunset). It is a time for inner reflection, devotion to God, and self-control. Ramadan is also a time of intensive worship, reading of the Qur'an, giving charity, purifying one's behavior, and doing good deeds. One of the important goals of Ramadan is to highlight the life of the poor- who have nothing to eat & hence, make us understand what one goes through. Alms and charity is given in this month.

From sighting of moon of Ramadan to that of Eid Al Fitr - every day is memorable. Quran was revealed in the month of Ramadan which accroding to the Islamic lunar calender is the  9th. month. Special prayers, extensive reading of Quran, special food for iftar (breaking fast) is the main highlight of Ramadan. Lailatul Qadar and the last 10 days of Ramadan are of utmost importance and overall, various cultural aspects are associated with Ramadan - makes it a special month for all muslims.

When it is Ramadan, it brings back unforgettable memories of the previous years, of people (especially those who are not with us anymore), gatherings of family and friends, celebrations, shopping, excitement...

My best Ramadan were the ones when I was very young and our whole family was still living under the same roof....several factor have thrown us continents apart...this hurts the most and of course, make us feel nostalgic of those good, old days.

Central mosaque (masjid) of Seoul has a modest iftar arranged for all those who want to break their fast and pray - usually coming from far flung areas of Korea and at times visitors from other foreign countries. Some restaurants also offer free iftar to its customers here in Seoul in Itaewon area.

The salat /namaz times for Seoul (South Korea) during August (Ramadan) can be found here.

Wish everyone a gracious and joyous Ramadan!

Photo credit for pic. below@Raja Islam

List of Mosques in Korea

Besides the official Seoul Central Mosque in Itaewon (my post here) , the list of mosques in other provinces in Korea is below, this list doesn't include the mosques (masjid)/prayers rooms that students or other private individuals have established:

Gyeonggi-do/ Paju Masjid
Located near the Imjin River , the Paju Masjid is mostly frequented by Bangladeshi and Pakistani Muslims in the vicinity.
Address : 421-9, Yeongtae-ri, Wonreung-myeon, Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do
Tel : +82-31-946-2110


Bupyeong Masjid
Located in the east end of Incheon, Bupyeong Masjid is a place of worship for immigrant Muslim workers in nearby areas, including Namdong Industrial Complex in Incheon.
Address : 574-19, Sipjeong-dong, Bupyeong-gu, Incheon
Tel : +82-32-512-2612


Anyang Masjid
Anyang Masjid, not far from Seoul, is operated independently by Muslim immigrants from Bangladesh and Pakistan.
Address : 618-132, Anyang 5-dong, Anyang-si, Gyeonggi-do
Tel : +82-31-444-7757


Ansan Masjid
An imam from Bangladesh serves at the Ansan Masjid, which is operated independently by immigrant Muslims from Bangladesh, Pakistan, and Indonesia working at the nearby Ansan Industrial Complex.
Address : 741-5, Wongok-dong, Danwon-gu, Ansan-si, Gyeonggi-do
Tel : +82-31-492-1948


Gwangju Masjid
In Gwangju (Gyeonggi-do), which is adjacent to Seongnam, Icheon and Namyangju, Gwangju Masjid, Korea 's third masjid, was opened in 1981.
Address : 48-9, Yeok-ri, Gwangju-eup, Gwangju-gun, Gyeonggi-do
Tel : +82- 31- 761-3424


Jeolla-do/Jeonju Masjid
Matching Jeonju's reputation as a city of tradition and art, Jeonju Masjid shows the harmony between Korean and Islamic architecture. Traditional Korean roof tiles adorn the Islamic dome.
Address : 1562-10, Inhu-dong 2-ga, Deokjin-gu, Jeonju-si, Jeollabuk-do
Tel : +82- 63- 243-1483


Busan/Busan Masjid
Busan Masjid was the second masjid to open in Korea. It was built in 1980 with financial support from Ali Fellaq, the former minister of finance of Libya .
Address : 30-1, Namsan-dong, Geumjeong-gu, Busan
Tel : +82- 51- 518-9991


Islamic Centers/Macheon-Geoyeo Center
Address : 186-26, Geoyeo-dong, Songpo-gu, Seoul
Tel : +82-2- 431-6850

Suwon Center
Address : 320-15, Dangsu-dong, Gwonseon-gu, Suwon , Gyeonggi-do
Tel : +82- 31- 295-2956

Jeju Center
Address : Rm. 1215, Jeonghan Officetel, 939, Nohyeong-dong, Jeju
Tel : +82- 64- 712-1215


Daegu Center
Address : 202-6, Jukjeon-dong, Dalseo-gu, Daegu
Tel : +82-53- 523-2171

Gwangju Center
Address : 894-7, Wolgyeo-dong, Gwangsan-gu, Gwangju
Tel : +82-62- 972-5136
Website of Korea Muslim Foundation: http://www.koreaislam.org (Korean, English)

For Pocheon, Cheonnan, Kimhae  and  Jinju please look at the this blog post by an Indonesian blogger.

OR

Visit Korea Muslim Federation website, here they have  updated a list of mosques in various cities but it is in Korean language however, one can get help to locate phone number and address.



Credits: Korea Tourism Corporation

Seoul Central Mosque (이슬람교 성원)

I took this photo from a roof of a house near the Seoul mosque

Seoul Central Mosque established under the Presidential Decree (on May 1969)- during General Park Chung-hee's era - is the 'only' mosque in Seoul, a city of about 12 million people and the highest number of foreign residents in Korea.

 This mosque first opened its doors back on May 5, 1976 in the area called Hannam-2-dong, close to the main Itaewon street in Yongsan-gu and has been attracting a crowd of close to a 1000 worshippers from around the world for the Jumma Prayers (scheduled at 1 a.m ) every Friday. It covers an area of 5000 square meters and has a capacity to accomodate 1500 people. On EID, the space is overwhelmed and worshippers are seen praying outside on the roads using their prayer mats - all around the mosque to be a part of EID congregation.

These are some of the images of the Seoul Central Mosque from a street going up towards Hyat - a hyper wired street but for great photos visit thr blogger PENNPENN (leeesann)  here.


It has 3 floors in general and has a seperate facility for women to pray at the mosque on its 3rd. floor. Saudi Arabia's generous donation of about 3.5 billion won in 1991 helped open a madrasa for the muslim children to learn about Islamic culture, Arabic, Quran and English. I also taught there for about a year and was delighted to see Korean children's interest to learn the basics of Islam and their emphasis on learning Arabic. Children from countries like, Egypt, Libya, Syria, Sudan, Pakistan, India, Bangladesh, Turkey and Indonesia are among the few countries where these students have come from.

Seoul Masjid has a modest Islamic Cultral and Research Center.



Among the local community, it is a sort of a toursit site because many people want to see the arcitecture. It is located beautifully between the Namsan and the Han River.

'Click on the map for an enlarged image'

More information on Islam, the Mosque and its activities can be found at 'Korea Muslim Federation's' website.

Address:732-21 Hannam 2 Dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Telephone:82+ 2+ 793-6908
Website: http://www.koreaislam.org

Mosque by subway: Get off at Itaewon Station, Line No.6. Take Exit:3 and go straight for 3 min. From the crossing near Sultan Kebab/Dunkin Donuts take a right turn and go further straight for 5 min. Again turn left in a street with a school's wall on one side. You can see the mosque.

Note
A very comprehensive post by the blogger "Old Knicks man" on: how many mosques do we have in Korea (한국에는 이슬람교 성원이몆개나 있을까요)? Read Here.

Itaewon-Seoul

Seoul Mosque in Itaewon: Entrance ( pictures by D.H in 2008)

Street where the mosque is located... (pic: 2008)

Towards the prayer halls!

ITAEWON: SEOUL, SOUTH KOREA

Behind the pole is the mosque of Seoul (Itaewon)

Itaewon is famous for many things since the Late Choson period. Over the years, it has been evolving into something that we can call -the melting pot of cultures in greater Seoul region. Of course the leading city is Ansan in Gyeonggido when it come to its ethnic diversity.

Itaewon, Bokwangdong and Hannam crossing lines in this picture from the window seat. It is my old neighborhood too.

This place has over 30 embassies and diplomatic community prefers to reside here and they are in abundance. Embassies of Pakistan, Germany, Egypt, Malaysia, India, Italy are all at a walking distance from each other. English is frequently used hence, getting around is not a problem.

Information guides @ your service

In case you need any information about anything, walking guides from KNTO are at your service, they speak Japanese, Chinese and English fluently.

There is an information desk inside the Itaewon subway station - where you can get brocheurs etc besides information. There is a full fledged Itaewon-Hannam Global Village Center - for all sorts of activities, information and community work - near Itaewon Hotel. Free Internet services, Korean classes for kids and adults, cultural programs and much more is offered here!

Socks at a make-shift store

Here socks sell like hot cakes - Korea is a leading exporter of high quality socks in all the different styles, shapes, forms and colors. It is a whole project to do a research on...:D In Korean culture people wear socks pretty much all the time - a favourite in all weathers and all the times - inside the home, with flip flops, with sleepers, while going to bed and the list goes on.

Money Exchange

This specific money changer- right next to a bus stop on the street going down to Chunghwa Apartments is one of the oldest. The (odd )couple (possible owners) at this money exchange are good at ripping people off and with the passage of time they have become rude.

Sisterhood

Fast food chains, ethnic food and halal food restaurants are in plenty. My favourite 'Foreign Food Store' is a heaven for grocery shopping is also here - they have their sister restaurant named Foreign Food Restaurant (Halal) close by-food is good and so is the interior and the service.

청화 (Chunghwa Apt Map): An old neighborhood!

Antiques shops are in plenty but it can NOT beat Dapshimni which is the "real" antique hub.

119 Rescue Center/Famous as Fire StationThis street will take you to the Seoul Mosque/ Islamic Center, the Foreign Food Store - one has to take exit 3 of the Itaewon Station to get there.

This place is turning into a small Islamic community of Seoul. We have a Prince Sultan bin Abdul Aziz madrassa here as well. Islamic books store, halal bakeries, fabric shops, used cell phone shops, travel agencies with a monopoly of merchants from Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Turkey and Bangladesh can be witnessed at this place. By the way, this same street can also take you to the 'red light area' which is found en route to the mosque, many gay bars are located in the vicinity. This was the only choice given to the foreign governments to build a mosque during general Parks' era - which took years of diplomacy.

Extension project underway of the already huge 'International School of Korea'.

Lake behind my place trying to defreeze ~ it just snowed for 15 minutes again in a partly cloudy day!

Itaewon is 'the place' if you want to try your regional cuisines at a comparatively cheaper price than anywhere in Seoul. A part of its street towards Hangangjin is called the 'Japanese Street'.

Restaurants from Morocco, Egypt, Jordon and Dubai are all located on the main street. You can also find Italian, Irish, French and German restaurants easily. Places specializing in food from Bulgaria and Serbia to Turkey and Iran are located in this small neighborhood.

Korean Activities in Pakistan in the Last Six Months

photo credits@ vision care

I have tried to give an overview of the various activities in bits and pieces by the Korean government, its community and the interest groups based in Pakistan. It has not been as impressive as it should be but at least, the last six months have seen more activities by the Korea Embassy than ever before. It seems that we are moving in the right direction - slowly but surely!

The New Ambassador
Choong-Joo Choi, was appointed as the ambassador of the Republic of Korea in Pakistan in August 2010. Before coming to Pakistan, he worked as the special advisor to the Governor of Gyeonggi Province on Foreign Relations. Gyeonggi has the largest share of foreign population in Korea. He has also served as an Adjunct Professor at the Division of International Studies (DIS) at Korea University.

Ambassador Choi graduated from the Department of Economics at Seoul National University, Seoul, Korea in 1977. The same year he passed the civil service exam and joined the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Trade. He also studied at the Johns Hopkins University.

In the past six months, he has been very busy and active in furthering the relations between Korea and Pakistan. He has actively participated in looking for donors from Korea to help Pakistan out with flood relief activities.

Korea’s Donation for the Flood Victims
So far, the Government of Korean and the Korean business community have donated generously around $ 4.5 million in the form of goods and cash as an emergency humanitarian assistance for flood victims in Pakistan. The donation comprised of $ 2.1 million from the Government of Korea, their private sector donated $1.3 million, and Korean companies in Pakistan chipped in $1.1 million.

Free Medical Services by the Korean Doctors (September 19-26, 2010)
Vision Care Service (VCS) is the organization for ophthalmic surgery & medical treatment in Korea. This NGO was founded in 2002 and its aim is to treat people with visual impairment and to restore their sight regardless of their nationality, sex, or religion. This Eye Camp which was sponsored by Samsung Electronics treated around 570 patients and conducted 70 operations. This rather small but efficient team included 11 people (3 doctors, 2 nurses, 5 volunteers, 1 staff). They also donated money for the flood affectees in Pakistan.

Another recent activity was carried in the first week of Feruary, when a team of Korean doctors examined patients suffering from eye, teeth, stomach, skin, joint aches and other diseases and distributed free medicines near Quetta.

National Taekwondo Championships
The Seventh Korean Ambassador National Taekwondo Championships as the name shows were also sponsored by the Korean Embassy which is a modest yet an important effort by the Embassy of Korea who have not been this active before.

Debate Contest at a University
This is one of the venues where Pakistan and Korea need a solid relationship. More and more exchanges between Pakistani and Korean universities is the need of the hour. Pakistan has some of the best brains and Korea has some of the best facilities, universities and reserach centers. Both the countries can benefit from this union. At the moment Pakistan and Korea have signed an MOU for an exchange of students and scholars in the field of science and technology. I hope that the two countries open the door for arts, music, humanities and social sciences as well. Currently, National University of Modern Languages (NUML) is the only educational institution in Pakistan where we have Korean Language classes at a governmental scale. This area of studies should be fully explored in collaboration with other universities in Pakistan with their Korean counterparts. Anyhow, Korea sponsers debate contests at NUML every year- which is a good effort.

I hope that Korea and Pakistan work closer on their bilateral relations in the field of economic, trade, education and human resource development. Both the countries have a lot to learn from each other.


NOTE:Korean Diplomatic Mission can be reached at the address below
Embassy of the Republic of Korea (Pakistan)
Block 13 St. 29 Diplomatic Enclave II, G-5/4
Islamabad, Pakistan
Tel: 92-51-227-9380, Fax: 92-51-227-9391
Email: pakistan@mofat.go.kr

Itaewon Islamic Street in Seoul

A consumer shops for fabrics at Step-In, a clothing and fabric shop on Itaewon Islamic Street.
Salam Bakery, a small store on the left side of the road leading toward the Seoul Central Masjid in the Yongsan District, was crowded with customers last Thursday afternoon.

Among those waiting were two Muslim men from Sudan in line to purchase bread and a Korean couple with curious eyes who were gazing at the baklava, bite-sized cakes made with nuts and honey.

“Non-Muslims interested in ethnic food also come to my shop,” said Jinee Jung, who runs the bakery specializing in Syrian-style cakes. “Still, the Muslims living on this street or those who pass through this street to pray at the mosque are my major customers. My bakery sells them halal confectionaries, which Muslims can buy without fear of violating Islamic law.”

“Halal” is an Arabic term that means “permissible” under Islamic law and includes objects or actions. The rules about food are probably the most familiar to non-Muslims.

Among these, the most rigorous rules for food are applied to meat. Halal meat excludes pork and many other sorts of meat and, in addition, requires that rigorous procedures for slaughter be followed, such as a quick killing to minimize the animal’s suffering.

To make the bakery’s halal cakes, animal oil and other animal ingredients are avoided or used sparsely in the bakery’s recipes.

“This is the busiest season for us,” Jung said. “During Ramadan, Muslims refrain from eating and drinking from dawn until dusk. They tend to eat more pastries and sweets at night than on ordinary days so I will keep the shop open for 24 hours a day during Ramadan, although I will let my chef, who is from Damascus in Syria, rest during the day because he cannot eat or drink during that time.”

Ramadan began on Saturday and continues for about a month.

Across the road from the Salam Bakery stands Salam.com, an electronics store that deals in various electronics goods, including a cell phone with an alarm set to ring for daily prayers.

There are also several travel agencies here, with signs in Korean and Arabic, and sometimes in English.

Further along the street there is a clothing and fabric shop called Step-In, whose Afghan owner welcomes anyone who steps into the store. In front of the store, mannequin heads wearing hijab, or head coverings, and pretty shoes are displayed.


A customer browses through the books at the Islamic Book Center. Lower right: Workers at Salam Bakery put out Syrian and Turkish cakes.By Jeon Min-kyu
One of several grocery stores on the street has a sign that says “We now have halal duck.”

This Islamic world in central Seoul is commonly called Itaewon Islamic street. The street started with a few grocery stores and restaurants selling halal food near the Seoul Central Masjid, the mosque established there in 1976.

Because of the halal food regulations, eating is not an easy job for Muslims in Korea, where the percentage of the Muslim population is not very large.

“I’m nearly becoming a vegetarian, living here,” sighed Shiraz Subeh, an Ewha Womans University student from Palestine. She had come to the Seoul Central Masjid for her daily prayers, which is one of her obligations as a Muslim. The mosque has a separate area where women can pray.

The shops on Itaewon Islamic Street have met the nutritional needs of many Muslims in Korea. There is a butcher selling halal meat next to the entrance of the masjid, as well as several grocery stores and restaurants in the neighborhood.

“We can do our five daily prayers either at the masjid or at home, but I come here from time to time to pray, to meet friends and to shop in the neighboring stores,” Subeh said.

But there is much more here than food.



Subeh and her friend from Kyrgyzstan, Nazik Sultanbekova, who is also studying at Ewha, dropped by the Islamic Book Center to purchase a copy of the Koran in Spanish for a Spanish-speaking friend.

Muneer Ahmad, the bookstore’s chief executive officer, said he opened the store three years ago to increase awareness about Islam among Koreans and the larger foreign population.

“Many people may misunderstand, but Islam emphasizes open-mindedness, tolerance and peace, and many Muslims are open-minded,” he said. “I am from a Muslim family in Kashmir, India, but I have not become a Muslim just because my parents are Muslim. I read the scriptures of various religions and then I decided to be a Muslim.

“I recommend that people do the same to become familiar with the similarities and differences between different religions and to gain a true understanding of them.”

The bookstore has Korean and English translations of the Koran and other Islamic books. For English-speakers interested in studying Arabic there are books written in both English and Arabic.

There are many things to learn on this street. Most of the Muslims here are kind and eager to tell people who ask about Islam. Ahmed, the bookstore owner, and Jang Sun-kyung, who were at the mosque to pray, were two such hospitable folks. Jang, the former head of the female devotees’ group at the masjid, converted to Islam after spending 20 years exploring other religions. Her story is rather unique because, unlike many other Korean converts to Islam, Jang came to Islam without having traveled to the Middle East.

The number of Muslims in Korea is gradually increasing, because more Koreans have become interested in the religion and the culture. The number of workers arriving here from Islamic countries is also increasing. The Korea Muslim Federation, which has its headquarters in the masjid, estimates there are about 35,000 Korean nationals who are Muslim, in addition to the many other Muslims among the foreign population.

Credits: This article was published in JoongAng Daily.